Valentino’s creative director Pipperpaolo Piciolli announced in a recent interview that the brand will not take part in the Paris Digital Fashion Week in July. The SS21 men’s and women’s collections will be showcased in September instead. Piciolli commented publicly on his decision:
I don't want any compromise. If there's one thing I've learned in this lockdown it's that you have to start again in a more radical, more precise and directional way if possible. So we will make another kind of presentation that will obviously not be the show, but it will not be a compromise.
A Valentino spokesperson stated that the brand will host a coed event in September, however, the final approach is yet to be discussed. ‘We still do not know what format – presentation or runway show – this men’s and womenswear event in September will have, nor do we know the location’ detailed a brand representative.
The news comes after Saint Laurent’s announcement that the brand will not participate in fashion events for the foreseeable future in an attempt to ‘take ownership of its calendar’ during these times of uncertainty. The Armani Prive haute couture collection show has been also postponed to January 2021 and it will be showcased in Milan.
Piciolli also commented on Armani’s decision to hold the label’s couture show in Italy. “I don't really believe so much in the fact that, where you present the collection, you somehow support it there […]If Paris is the city where there are more buyers and more press and there you have a sounding board all over the world, in my opinion it's fine. It's not the place where it shows up, it's the place where it's told. [...] I don't think you support the country by parading in Milan or Rome’ he explains. Piciolli also stressed the importance of not following traditional fashion patterns, especially when considering the potential retail crisis luxury labels are preparing for. “I don't feel the pressure. I see the collections as an opportunity to tell and say what I think”.
A special event is currently under development for the Valentino’s next haute couture collection, but more details are yet to be disclosed.
Other designers are also expected to find innovative ways to showcase their collections within the current climate and ditch fashion week traditionalism, following the lead of Saint Laurent and Valentino.
By Maria Bita