If, on one side, the shows at the MFW have been closed to the public because of the Coronavirus COVID19 and only seen on screens, on the other side at Paris Fashion Week, they added a few more and unexpected.
The most talked-about surprise of this last Paris Fashion Week, bears the signature of the noble Kanye West, who is the protagonist of this Parisian fashion week with his Sunday morning gospel choir and with the interpretation of his little daughter, North, at the Yeezy brand fashion show on Monday evening.
Co-star has also been his sweetheart, Kim Kardashian, with her second appearance in France after the violent robbery of 2016. She looks very sensual in a Balmain latex suit on the catwalk last Friday morning. See it buy it now, for Kim it becomes See it wear it now! Maybe not appropriate for a Sunday morning in church, but as usual, Kim is under the spotlight.
Speaking of the Balmain's FW 2020 collection, Oliver Rousteing shows that nothing is impossible. In collaboration with Atzuko Kudo (the Japanese-London designer of the famous neon mini-dress worn by Chiara Ferragni), the latex drapes and it becomes a total look in opposition to satin that sort of male dress that releases a female strength as seen on the catwalks in Milan.
That strength is highlighted by the amphibians under the romantic dresses by Pier Paolo Piccioli for Valentino and by the studded ones by Miu Miu with a kind of sailor uniform. Even the hopeless romantic, Giambattista Valli, brings renewed gritty on the catwalk, for those women who never act by the book, as he states himself. That feminine strength is the women- heroine, but still, women, inspired by the landscape of Wales and its checks, the ones by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, wrapped in wool cloaks made by recycled old collections' garments. Reuse and "Recycle! Retch-cla-ee!" the words seen and heard by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, who brings vintage pieces on the catwalk, colorful and crazy as he only knows how to. Along with wicker refurbished bags from the 1920s and 1970s.
Speaking of accessories, undoubtedly, the most innovative are those by Virgil Abloh for Off-White. A reference to the world of automotive mechanics from which he stole some tools such as hexagon wrenches/keys to make earrings. We see everything from mechanics to riding on the last day of fashion shows that closes the fashion month, together with Chanel.
Virginie Viard brings her sense of freedom on the catwalk, seen as the wind on a knight's face. She seems to be inspired by a picture of Karl Lagerfeld with the Italian journalist Anna Piaggi, who wears riding boots, which might remind us of Coco, who loved horses. She brings colors to this show of mostly black and white garments with her passion: the Byzantine-style jewels.
The jewels take the place of the prints on a shirt that recalls the phantom first cover by Anna Wintour for Vogue America, November 1988. Reference or coincidence?
By Pamela Romano