Following Milan, Paris Fashion Week was filled with livestreams, films, and digital lookbooks and had very few runway shows, due to the pandemic.
The collection was presented on Friday in the giant gilded Salle des Fêtes of the French capital's City Hall.
Known for his draping skills, for this collection Yamamoto sculpted and wrapped complex pieces of silk and wool. Also, he used hangers and raw wire crinolines to add volume.
“I am not an artist, maybe a kind of one. But when artists send political messages that is not very good. What I wanted was to be on the side of human beings, even if human beings are not always good," said Yamomoto.
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton developed a vibrant gender-fluid collection; a blend of mannish tailoring for women and women’s fabrics and finish for the men.
"Stepping into a territory that is still stylistically vague. A sensitive zone that erases gender and promises exponential creative possibilities. What does an in-between garment look like? What kind of cut can dissolve masculine and feminine?" wondered Ghesquière in his program notes.
The collection was presented on the top floor of Samaritaine, the latest real estate project by LVMH.
"There are 20 million people every year that walk from Notre Dame to the Louvre, and this place is right in between the two of them. En route, people can walk over Pont Neuf, the most photogenic bridge in the world. What’s there not to like!" smiled Louis Vuitton CEO Michael Burke.
"There is a sense that this season in Paris is a lot about defending a certain French idea of a living spectacle. Of course, the pandemic means we have and will do many more things in digital. But at a certain point, a live expression of ideas is vital. Enough with Bluetooth, mobile phones and algorithms," stated Hermès women’s creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski.
The collection was simple and minimal with clean lines; masculine blazers, fisherman gilets, low-waist skirts, knotted-at-the-side dresses, and blousons in double-face cashmere.
“Seeing as it will be the last show in the Grand Palais for quite some time, I wanted to pay homage to all the great, spectacular shows Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld staged here over the past 20 years. Plus, Gabrielle Chanel and Karl have dressed so many movie stars over the years, but in their daily lives and not just for the screen,” explained Virginie Viard, her hands gesturing up to the massive Chanel sign.
Pink suits were worn with culottes, classic Chanel suits were trimmed with gold chains, a pink jacket was paired with a double-breasted waistcoat, and many outfits were worn with shorts halfway up the thigh.
“It’s not that I set out to be younger, or dress a 20-year-old rather than a 50-year-old; not at all. More that I want Chanel to be very wearable. With Karl you got a very clear statement, where the message was very clear. While when I look at an ensemble, I ask myself, will she want to wear the look?” smiled Viard.
By Maria Peftouloglou