Milan is the city of elegance, where luxurious materials and flawless tailoring are the centers of attention. And for the spring 2021 season, the city’s designers showed both.
Because of health protection rules, guests were required to fill in a self-certification form before each show. Also, the shows are all starting on time as they are streamed live on the web.
“This Fashion Week must be an example of our ability to adapt and live with Covid-19 in the smartest possible way. In the course of the week, we want to demonstrate that it’s possible to forge ahead despite the circumstances. I’m expecting plenty of positive energy,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber (CNMI), speaking to a group of journalists.
Instead of a show, Missoni showcased its latest ad campaign as the opening calendar event of the six-day season in Milan. Named Postcard from the Bel Paese, it featured Italian models Vittoria Cerretti and Eduardo Sebastianelli and it was shot in Santa Maria del Monte, in the province of Varese, the birthplace of Missoni. The clothes featured are long graphic cashmere cardigans and pants suits, or Lurex blazers for ladies and chalk-stripe pants for the guys. “This is the right moment to break the mould and try something new. The purpose of the show has changed. It used to be to show the collection to the trade and to the press. Today, it goes immediately to the public and the final consumer… So closer to the actual season we will build a communication project,” said designer Angela Missoni.
DSquared2’s women showed up in micro mini-strap little black dresses, see-through negligées, acid-dyed jeans, khaki trousers worn with lace tops, and white boyfriend coats. Tough yet sensitive and all very flattering. The guys were in elongated cargo pants, tuxedos with mat black lapels, pilot flight jackets, chain metal tanks, and aviator pants.
Valentino showed its latest collection at the Fonderie Macchi, a metallurgical foundry, unlike other times. Clothes wise, the collection consisted of many dresses woven in incarnations of macramé, crochet, and lace. The denim outfits were a collaboration with Levi’s and appeared polished yet romantic.
Donatella Versace said that her new collection "transports us underwater to Versacepolis".The collection had color-blocked pastel short suits, neon mini dresses in coral reef-inspired prints, suits with oversized jackets layered over bikini tops and mini skirts, and bra tops paired with sarong skirts. "I wanted to create something disruptive...," Versace says, "To me that meant dreaming of a new world. A world made of popping colors and fantastic creatures and a world in which we can all coexist peacefully. This collection has an upbeat soul and is optimistic, dreamy, positive... These are clothes that bring you joy."
For spring 2021, Fabiana Filippi showed a collection titled The Perfect Rhythm of Nature featuring simple, neat, and sleek outfits; an elegant Grecian-draped slip, a pleated skirt-and-top combo, and a brocade dress with a sarong skirt.
Francesco Risso called his collection, " a social experiment." He further explained how he created his pieces from "slashing a bathing suit to turn it into a tank top, gluing a thick sole to a pair of shoes, adding an extra long zip to a bag to make it look like a torpedo, cutting a tutu in two. Long, short, lean, roomy, frayed, patent, cotton, leather, gauze, and then flowers, stripes and words: it’s a complete deconstruction of shapes, textures and patterns." Risso says, "Clothing is accidental, and yet accidents always happen for a reason," and "This one, most of all, is about not getting back to normal. It is about discovering fragility as strength and emotions as a connection, celebrating the dissonances that make a symphony."
Emilio Pucci described his latest collection as “sophisticated beauty, femininity and soft elegance.” For spring 2021, the new design team revived three archival prints that paid homage to Capri. Also, a collaboration with Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi was part of the collection.
Prada’s spring 2021 collection was co-designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons and their theme was the uniform. “A uniform needs to also express something that is more timeless for me than a season specific fashion item,” said Simons. “My personal uniform is usually quite simple: black pants—Prada, not because I work here, since ten years or more—and a shirt,” he added. “I personally go from one uniform to another one,” said Prada. “My last love is a white pleated cotton skirt and a sweater.”
Alessandro Dell'Acqua held his show in his Milanese venue, a huge former garage. “This period has led me to look into what I really appreciate. I started from a foundation material, on which I worked with a couture spirit,” he said backstage.